I have fallen far behind on these posts. In an attempt to catch up I will list some high lights and include some pictures. We took some short mileage days in the beginning but now we have to make up some miles. Walking and touring the towns followed by dinner makes up most of our days. Not too much time is left for writing. We are walking 36 straight days. We have 11 more days. So far we have been holding up but recovery over night is getting tougher and some really hard days are in front of us. So far we have walked 320 miles.

Logroño was a wonderful city. The cathedral altar had a little too much gold for my taste but we entertained by the organist and a singing nun practicing a musical piece with several children. We were sad to say goodbye to Pilar who has to skip ahead because she only has so many days to walk. Who hope and plan to see her again!

Leaving Legrono the next morning through a park before entering the countryside which was full of field after field of grapes. In Navarrete there was a pilgrim hospital 13th century. The walks through vineyards are quite pleasant and eventually we ended up in Ventosa. Here we stayed at an inn that was converted from a mill that existed in 1700. The hostess/owner had antiques in all the rooms and served an elegant meal of salad and paella.
The next day we were off to the capital of the Kingdom of Navarre (11 century) Nájera. Many Kings, Queens, and knights are buried here. The church has an interesting historical legend. Supposedly the church was built where Don Garcia, the son of Sancho the Great was hunting with his Falcon. The falcon flew into a cave and Garcia went inside only to find a statue of the Virgin Mary. The church was built right up to the hillside that contained the cave. When touring the church you can even enter the cave from inside the church.

Santo Domingo

The walk here was through gently rolling hills but there was one climb. We were exposed to the sun quite a bit of the way and it ended up being a longer day than expected. passed through the towns Azofra population 250, Ciruena population 100.

The next day to Belarado was walking alongside the highway. Not my favorite. We did witness a rainbow this day because of a light misting of rain. We had lunch on a bench in Redecilla del Camino and then stoped in the church at Viloria de la Rioja. This is the home of Santo Domingo who was such a friend to all the pilgrims. Once in Belarado we had some difficulties finding the hostel. It was a nice place and the owner made us and 3 other people dinner. The present building was once a mill and then converted to a supply electricity to the town by using the river to turn a turbine. On a side note, I have on most days sore feet but today experienced some foot and ankle pain which I hope will be better tomorrow.

Puente La Reina to Maneru to Estella by bus

It was supposed to be raining this morning yet thankfully it had not yet arrived. We had breakfast at the hostel and started walking by eight. I took a few pictures on the way out of town. One was of the Queens Bridge. She purposely had it built to give safe passage for the increasing number of pilgrims passing through on their way to Santiago, in the 11th century. This entire trip is filled with 11th to 14th century architecture. Much of it still in use today.

 I climbed a steep hill to a Cathedral that displays the crucifixion on a Y shaped cross. It was called a robber’s cross brought here by German pilgrims in the 13 or 14th century. 

The morning was getting late so we started our walk to Estella. Clouds in the distance were darkening and moving our way. Climbing a pretty steep hill, it started misting. In another 15 minutes thunder cracked and lightning was all around us. It was raining hard by the time we topped the hill and arrived at Maneru. We hurriedly looked for cover under an awning where three other hikers had congregated. Every one was discussing their next move. I checked the weather and things were predicted to get worse the rest of the day. Carolyn and I decided it best to catch a taxi or bus to the next town. We found a bus stop but were having difficulty reading the schedule. A man saw us and offered to help. His name was Fermin. He called around and determined that all taxis were far away. He interpreted the bus schedule but realized we were at the wrong bus stop. In the rain he chaperoned us to another stop. We had just arrived when a car pulled up. A woman got out and joyously said “Carolyn and Tom, my friends!’’. We thanked Fermin and I took a picture of the group before he left.

The lady’s name was Pilar and she is from Ecuador. We had met her on our first day in Saint Jean. in fact she was the first person we spoke to while standing in line to register for the Camino. I think the three of us were drawn to each other at that first meeting. She told us of her storm experience while we waited for the bus.

Finally in Estella, the three of us went to the nearest cafe to get out of the rain. Over hot chocolate we thought again about the chances of meeting each other under those circumstances and how her experience of the storm was much like ours. She had become afraid and disoriented. From out of nowhere she heard a voice call her name. You could imagine how surprised she must have been. The voice called again PILAR, PILAR! She looked up and there was a woman calling out from a second story window. “Come up here and get out of the rain. Pilar asked “How do you know my name”? “I recognize your face from pictures my mother had from her college days in Pamplona”. Indeed Pillar had been in college and friends with her mother. But that was forty years ago.
They talked and she agreed to take Pilar to the bus stop. The same bus stop that Fermin brought us to and we arrived at exactly the same moment as Pilar. Two days later she and I walked together from Vianna to Legrono telling stories of our past and developing a special friendship that will continue long after the Camino. Carolyn and I plan to meet with Pilar in the future. She is a really extraordinary person.

There are so many events like these happening every day.`From the historical sights to the relationship building, not to mention the physical effort of walking from town to town, a day on the Camino has a way of changing you. You begin to rely less on certainty and control and  look more toward mystery and possibilities that you could never have imagined. So did the storm change our plans? Or was this a plan chosen for us? Buen Camino on your journey!

This journey continues to Los Arcos

PAMPLONA TO PUENTE la REINA

Today’s path would take us through farmlands and into towns with 13th century churches, roads and bridges. These are the places that supported the pilgrims as they also walked this Way. We think about them often, as we too feel the tired muscles and aching joints at the end of each day. It is easier for us as food and lodging are much more available and yet the number of steps remains the same. It’s also amazing how much recovery occurs with a good nights sleep. One is grateful, if at this point no blisters or sprains have occurred. We are getting stronger and meeting more people. The walking together is inspiring and motivating everyone to share more of their story. The focus of our thoughts are shifting from just navigating the physical aspects to something deeper within us. Living fully today, we forget tomorrow until the morning comes. Waking up excited for the possibilities that are prepared for us if only our hearts and mind are present all along the Way.

These pictures are from Pamplona to Puenta la Reina 8/28-29