Puente La Reina to Maneru to Estella by bus

It was supposed to be raining this morning yet thankfully it had not yet arrived. We had breakfast at the hostel and started walking by eight. I took a few pictures on the way out of town. One was of the Queens Bridge. She purposely had it built to give safe passage for the increasing number of pilgrims passing through on their way to Santiago, in the 11th century. This entire trip is filled with 11th to 14th century architecture. Much of it still in use today.

 I climbed a steep hill to a Cathedral that displays the crucifixion on a Y shaped cross. It was called a robber’s cross brought here by German pilgrims in the 13 or 14th century. 

The morning was getting late so we started our walk to Estella. Clouds in the distance were darkening and moving our way. Climbing a pretty steep hill, it started misting. In another 15 minutes thunder cracked and lightning was all around us. It was raining hard by the time we topped the hill and arrived at Maneru. We hurriedly looked for cover under an awning where three other hikers had congregated. Every one was discussing their next move. I checked the weather and things were predicted to get worse the rest of the day. Carolyn and I decided it best to catch a taxi or bus to the next town. We found a bus stop but were having difficulty reading the schedule. A man saw us and offered to help. His name was Fermin. He called around and determined that all taxis were far away. He interpreted the bus schedule but realized we were at the wrong bus stop. In the rain he chaperoned us to another stop. We had just arrived when a car pulled up. A woman got out and joyously said “Carolyn and Tom, my friends!’’. We thanked Fermin and I took a picture of the group before he left.

The lady’s name was Pilar and she is from Ecuador. We had met her on our first day in Saint Jean. in fact she was the first person we spoke to while standing in line to register for the Camino. I think the three of us were drawn to each other at that first meeting. She told us of her storm experience while we waited for the bus.

Finally in Estella, the three of us went to the nearest cafe to get out of the rain. Over hot chocolate we thought again about the chances of meeting each other under those circumstances and how her experience of the storm was much like ours. She had become afraid and disoriented. From out of nowhere she heard a voice call her name. You could imagine how surprised she must have been. The voice called again PILAR, PILAR! She looked up and there was a woman calling out from a second story window. “Come up here and get out of the rain. Pilar asked “How do you know my name”? “I recognize your face from pictures my mother had from her college days in Pamplona”. Indeed Pillar had been in college and friends with her mother. But that was forty years ago.
They talked and she agreed to take Pilar to the bus stop. The same bus stop that Fermin brought us to and we arrived at exactly the same moment as Pilar. Two days later she and I walked together from Vianna to Legrono telling stories of our past and developing a special friendship that will continue long after the Camino. Carolyn and I plan to meet with Pilar in the future. She is a really extraordinary person.

There are so many events like these happening every day.`From the historical sights to the relationship building, not to mention the physical effort of walking from town to town, a day on the Camino has a way of changing you. You begin to rely less on certainty and control and  look more toward mystery and possibilities that you could never have imagined. So did the storm change our plans? Or was this a plan chosen for us? Buen Camino on your journey!

This journey continues to Los Arcos

PAMPLONA TO PUENTE la REINA

Today’s path would take us through farmlands and into towns with 13th century churches, roads and bridges. These are the places that supported the pilgrims as they also walked this Way. We think about them often, as we too feel the tired muscles and aching joints at the end of each day. It is easier for us as food and lodging are much more available and yet the number of steps remains the same. It’s also amazing how much recovery occurs with a good nights sleep. One is grateful, if at this point no blisters or sprains have occurred. We are getting stronger and meeting more people. The walking together is inspiring and motivating everyone to share more of their story. The focus of our thoughts are shifting from just navigating the physical aspects to something deeper within us. Living fully today, we forget tomorrow until the morning comes. Waking up excited for the possibilities that are prepared for us if only our hearts and mind are present all along the Way.

These pictures are from Pamplona to Puenta la Reina 8/28-29

The weather was much improved the next day as was the terrain. The destination was Zubiri about 13 miles away. I failed to mention that when we crossed the Pyrenees in the rainstorm on Day 2 we also crossed the border between France and entered Spain.

The way out of Roncesvalles is a wooded trail and at times a country lane. The path is wide and there is room for groups to walk together sharing information and getting to know fellow pilgrims on a deeper level.
Carolyn and I started a conversation with Raphael, his sister Carolina, his wife Juliette and their 6 month old baby Leopold. Raphael and Carolina’s father has 9 siblings and every year they have a family reunion and hike for 5 days on a section of the Camino. There are around 55 family members of Familia Garcia.  Some might hike every day, others might choose to take a day off or get picked up early. They are having a great time and we see them throughout the day and in towns. We’ve gotten to know their family and they know us too! 

Early in the morning we passed through the village of Burguete where Ernest Hemingway lived while writing the novel The Sun Also Rises.

We decided to not stop for coffee but did look around at the houses which were very well kept and decorated. Continuing on to the next village and again not feeling hungry we kept marching on. The next village would be our last chance. We were hungry now and also needed to fill water bottles. Entering the town we walked past a water fountain and filled my bottle. However we didn’t see any people and no merchants except one bar. I went up to the door where a sign was in the window that said “OPEN AT 12:30”. The door was locked and it appeared no was there. After a few minutes a man came to the door. When asked if they were serving food he said “No”. We looked around and realized the village looked like a ghost town. There weren’t any options.Suddenly we remembered that back a few days ago our host in Saint John had made a lunch to go, a baguette, cheese, and fruit that was still in our backpacks. We located a bench and we were grateful for it. The last downhill to Zubiri was long and rocky and very hard on the feet. They call the rocks Dragons Teeth. Despite tired legs and sore feet we slowly negotiated the path downward without incident.

Arriving at the hotel I saw our friends Brian and Sean from England outside in the street. I stopped to talk with them and Carolyn went in to register. The rest of this story is indicative of the kinds of things that seem to happen with regularity on every trail I have ever hiked. Carolyn called me inside the lobby. We did not have a room. Carolyn had made a reservation and received confirmation but the manager made a mistake and gave the reservation to someone else. After a seemingly long discussion she arranged for a room at another hotel. In the doorway was a woman from Austria who we met on day 2 pushing her daughter in a stroller over the Pyrenees. The little girl was joyful and spoke to everyone that passed. Earlier in the day we had seen her again at a highway crossing that had a food truck. Carolyn noticed she was not so cheery and social this time and still was not in good spirits. She had been complaining about her arm hurting. Her mother had heard Carolyn was a doctor and asked if she would look at her. The girl was very sensitive in her elbow and wrist. She did not want anyone to touch her. Carolyn advised she go to Pamplona and get an X-ray. And then she thought she might try something first. She told the girl it might hurt a little. Carolyn manipulated her arm and then told the mother if it worked she would be using it in a few minutes. Sure enough it worked and the little girl put her arms around her mother and all was well. Carolyn had prayed that she would be able help others on the trail. The ironic part is that the room we we had reserved was given to the girls mother. That is the only reason the four of us were in the same place at the same time.

At the end of the day, what started out as a walk in the park, in the end took a toll on both of us, yet we were placed right where we needed to be.

The journey continues…. to Pamplona

We finally arrived in St. Jean de Port after quite a journey. A seven hour flight to Madrid followed by a 5 hour drive to Pamplona where we spent the night. The next morning a two hour taxi ride took us to France and our room at MAISON Simonenia. St. JOHN pied de port is a quaint little village that is the start of the Camino and more importantly the registration office for all the Pilgrims. It is here that you receive a booklet that gets stamped along the way proving your journey and the rights to a certificate called  the Compostela. After picture taking and an early dinner we retired for the night even though an early morning start was not important as we would only be walking 5.5 miles to Borda a small hostel accommodating only 16 people. 

Saturday August 24

The walk begins with a steep climb that continues for most of the day. The views are astounding. Looking down on the village you just left an hour or so ago and the farms along the way with the mountains in the background.Each of us are strangers but as you pass and are passed by pilgrims you say “Buen Camino” which means “good walk”. Exchanging names and small conversations including where you are from and why you might be walking, or where are you headed for the night.

There were no clouds in the sky as we walked along with little or no shade. This days stop was only three hours away so there was no need to hurry. So stopping at Albergue Orrison for a much needed cool drink was a must as the relentless sun and wind had taken its toll on our bodies. Here was opportunity for more  conversations and encouragement for those that might be struggling. It is quite a test on the first day with another climb tomorrow. 

 Heading onward yet still upward we finally arrive at Borda, an auberge which once was a shepherds farm. Laurence, a French chef and the owner had hiked the Camino several times and wanted to provide a nice rest and meal for future pilgrims. A fantastic dinner was provided and a great start to our Camino by giving each of us an opportunity to introduce ourselves and state why we want do this or what led us to the Camino. Instantly we have 14 new friends! It started raining before supper and looks to continue all day tomorrow and even worse the temperature is predicted to be 48 in the morning with highs in the 50’s. Tomorrow we cross the border to Spain.

The journey continues…

Today we are heading to Switzerland to start a 100 mile hike around a beautiful mountain. I hope to experience all the things I was seeking on the Appalachian Trail plus new experiences I never dreamed were possible in my life. It’s been awhile since I posted and many miles have been hiked since then. I’ll begin to post regularly and talk about my continued Walk in Wilderness. It continues to foster growth spiritually and has brought me closer to God in ways I wouldn’t have, without the stillness and centering of my faith, which is made so evident in Creation. My relationships have been strengthened as I continue down this path with Carolyn. Together seeking to see the love and joy all around, sharing it with others. On the hike I will post a few photos and keep my journal, Writing about my experiences when I get back.

We are both so grateful for this ability to even attempt something this special. Being present to what is around us is something that highlights our trips. Though they may be difficult, we come away energized and fulfilled. Ready and willing to respond to others we meet with love and compassion.

Solo for the last time. It’s been over 6 months since I’d written those words, and even more since I’ve been on the Appalachian Trail. My plan of retiring from work and resetting my life by walking in the woods for six months, fell short by 1750 miles. Not exactly a success by most standards. Yet change within isn’t measured in miles. What I was seeking was a change in the way life was experienced. It has done that! it’s a process that continues to this day. The inner growth actually started way before the walking. Though I still have 1750 miles to walk, I’m starting from a new place. I’ve travelled further down my own spiritual path. Not only have I seen the beauty of our natural world but I recognize that every one has a place within themselves just as beautiful and awesome as any forest or mountain on this earth. Yet there is more to discover.

Though the hike was abruptly halted, it might be better understood as simply rerouted. Each of the five of original goals I started with have become a part of my life.. I have always understood that life is a continuous ongoing journey. Each day is another attempt.. Goals are simply things to work toward. The steps getting there are what matter. When attempting a long hike the experiences of each day are a life of their own, tomorrow starts another.  So what’s new?  As I’ll explain in a minute, the events that rerouted my journey changed my whole life. More than I could possibly have imagined. Once I stopped walking each day my body took a few weeks to recover. I had mixed feelings about the aborted attempt. I looked at what happened positively one day and the next wished. I’d kept going. It took awhile to process all this. Remember I had retired from working and immediately left for the trail. I hadn’t planned to be home for another four months. I spent the time planning my next steps. I’ll admit I was a little disappointed despite having made the correct decision to come home. I took a month to rest my foot. I spent as much time with my grandchildren as I could, worked around the house and made plans to leave for the trail in September.

 What actually happened could not have been predicted and I wouldn’t change it for a dozen successful thru hikes of the Appalachian Trail. I fell in love and got married! My journey led me to my wife. Our paths crossed because we were both seeking the same thing. We both found peace and joy walking in Creation. We were longing for a new purpose and a more profound life experience at the end of each day. The events that actually put us in each others sight took some time but once in motion the path became very clear not to mention very easy. And here is the story about how that happened.

Before planning for my retirement and and going on a 6 month long spiritual journey I began visiting a church which my daughter and grand children had been attending. I purposely didn’t seek to become very involved because I’d be leaving soon for six months on the trail. But being there each week started a refocusing of my faith. The messages of the sermons and the warmth of the members prepared my mind for experiencing more fully the lessons of the Trail. Up to this point I had been thinking the journey would begin with my first steps on the trail. But change happens constantly and we can intentionally be aware and open to the new messages and experiences of the present. In short we can grow from the inside. One of the members Carolyn, introduced herself  as we were leaving services one Sunday. She had been on several big hikes out west and as well as some sections of the Trail. Another member had told her about my upcoming attempt to hike the whole Trail. We talked a few minutes and I gave her a link to my blog. 

Two weeks later I was on my way. About the third week on an especially hard day, on a mountaintop in Virginia I looked at my phone. An email from Carolyn! It was an especially encouraging letter and boosted my spirits tremendously. When we first met I was excited because one of my goals was to meet new hiking friends. Maybe she would be one of them. This email was especially endearing to me because of the positive thoughts she expressed and no matter what decisions I made about the trail she wouldn’t think less of me. On that mountaintop I realized she was someone I wanted to get to know better. I kept walking for 200 or so miles before I made the decision to go home. Though I was terribly disappointed, knowing I could spend time with my family and maybe see more of Carolyn removed some of the sting from getting off trail. And now that I was retired the trail was still in my future.

It was June and Carolyn was training for a five hundred mile hike across Spain. A true historical Pilgrimage. I was in awe to say the least. It was something I had considered and hoped would be next adventure for myself but not until after completion of the AT. She invited me on a couple hikes but it was awhile before I felt well enough. Her life was very full with work and the many hikes she had planned. I assumed with her busy life there might not be any room for me. At that time I was happy for her friendship and meeting more people who enjoyed hiking. Little did I know she was looking for a hiking partner too. We began spending lots of time together hiking and sharing many personal parts of our lives. I really began having feelings for her yet was quite afraid to reveal those and possibly end our now seemingly intimate friendship. Up until now we hadn’t done anything but hiked together. No dates, holding hands, not  any expression of feelings for each other. Unknown to me she had been feeling all the same things as myself. She was waiting for me to make a move. She was about to give up on anything but friendship and even began praying that the answer would soon be revealed. That very day I expressed how deep my feelings went. With that out in the open we began sharing exactly what both of us had been thinking. By the end of the week we told my daughters and they both immediately began to cry. My daughter had known Carolyn for a year before I did.  She then revealed that she had been praying for this to happen for a long time, even before I ever had joined the church. That night around a campfire we looked at each other and new we would get married. We even started planning the wedding. Remember we still hadn’t been on a date.  

There is so much more to this story, like three proposals and three rings, going to tell our Pastor to schedule pre marriage counseling on the night of our first date. He had seen this coming much earlier than either of us. There is so much more but both of us believe that God brought us together and now we need to discern for what reason. Through study and prayer not to mention hiking through and around creation we will grow our faith and understanding.

Though I intended to resume my hike north toward Maine in April, both our journeys had brought us to a crossroads. Our paths led us to each other. We both felt it and realized very quickly that we were more than just hiking partners. Three months later we were married. Carolyn still assumed I might go and I do still plan to finish all 2200 miles. Yet my focus and my reasons for doing so understandably cannot be the same. I am starting from a new place with a new partner. Solo for the last time just means the journey continues but I have a partner to share it with. 

Being out in God’s creation has brought me to a new place spiritually and I want to continue sharing my story and my journey along that path. Our spiritual journeys are continuing as we grow in faith and listen for God’s plan for us. We are excited and hope our sharing will bring others to see their own path toward peace and joy in life. The journey takes a new direction…