We have had so many experiences thus far on this Camino and yet we haven’t reached the halfway point. That milestone is approaching in the next two days. The variety and depth of experiences is hard to process because each day brings additional interactions and scenery not to mention slight changes in culture. Most of what all this means will have to wait until we arrive back home. For now each new day is to be lived from beginning to end until the next one arrives. The pace though will have to accelerate as the miles walked in the first 20 days will need to be covered in 14. There will be no more short rest days and several of our longest days are ahead. Carolyn set up the schedule and has done an excellent job of getting us to this point. We are stronger and more confident. A few more miles each day is a very doable task. Using her first experience on the Camino she has made excellent choices for our accommodations. At night we have rested well, something that is so important on long hikes..This next post will cover the 2 days from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes followed by 15 miles to Ledigos

As usual we left Fromista in the dark but this time we had a good breakfast at the hotel. Just about everywhere in Spain you can get a tortilla which is a potato and egg dish similar to quiche and quite tasty. Just outside the main part of town we took the more scenic optional path. On this route we came upon some friends from Kentucky, Lee and Molly, that we had met a couple of days before. Lee and I had a very deep discussion about our faith, simply sharing and listening. There was no agenda to change or declare a right viewpoint, only sharing without judgement. These kinds of conversations make significant bonds between people who probably would never have even interacted with each other except on a journey of this kind.

Along the way we also saw quite a few other people we knew in the little towns we passed through this day. One of closest of them was Shona, who has a set schedule different from ours and we discovered after today we will not see her again. We wished her well and will keep in touch with her after the Camino. Hopefully we can travel to England and see her again. The process of planning your Camino or simply walking and planning as you go is a decision each pilgrim has to make for themselves. It proved to be a little controversial amongst pilgrims and I will comment on that subject on my last post after we finish the journey.

The scenic path we chose today joins back into the main path at mile 10 beside a well traveled road near the town of Villalzacar de Sirga where the 13 century Knights Templar church of Santa Maria resides. This is a National Monument and houses the tombs of several members of Royalty within its walls.

The Path was easy today and we arrived at our destination, Carrion de Los Condes, around 2 o’clock. According to the Brierley book this town was once home to 10,000 people and had 14 hospitals serving the pilgrims on their way to Santiago. At some point in time it had been under rule of the Moors from Africa, who controlled parts of Spain for over 700 hundred years. It is here the movie El Cid about a Castillian warlord fighting Christians and Moors to restore his honor in the 11th century is loosely based . However I have read since then, the movie is mostly untrue. Having seen these places I am inspired to dig deeper into this period of Spain’s history.

Once in our hotel we changed shoes and went back out to have lunch at Cafe Naturale. Food choices have been a challenge in Spain. I have found several dishes that I really like but they are not always available. Carolyn too has been challenged to locate vegetarian options but this place fit both our desires. I was able to get a true American hamburger with a bun and fries and Carolyn had calamari and grilled vegetables. Afterwards, we cleaned up and attended a guitar concert at a local church which once again was sponsored to help artists entertain Pilgrims along the way. This night there was a concert of four acoustic guitarists from the Netherlands. What a joyful experience after this days walk! Tomorrow is 15 miles to Terradillos de los Ledigos with few stops along the way and our first climb in a few days…

A few pictures from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes

Once again we headed out under darkness and cold temperatures over roads built by the Romans toward Teradillos de los Templarios. This road, now covered with gravel, is 2000 years old. The path is a slow climb over 12 miles and finally a short steep climb into the town. There are wide open spaces for most of the way and one stop at Calzadilla, home to 60 people. Because this is the only stopping point, we had lunch here along with everybody else that passes this way. Ledigos is only 3 miles away and we arrive at 2:00 o’clock, averaging around 3 miles an hour. When there are no villages to stop along the way a quicker arrival time is possible

This evening we had dinner with Christian and Mary Ann from Denmark. We met them on our first night back in Borda on the French side of the Pyrenees. Mary Ann has to go back to work in a few days so they will be leaving at the half way point in Sagahun. Next year they will continue from there to Santiago. Sadly this will be the last time we see them. It was great to get to know them and if I remember correctly the only couple we saw the entire journey to this point. Tomorrow we will walk 15 miles to Berciano and pass the halfway point along the way…

We have been walking now for 17 straight days. The first week the excitement carries you forward as your body gets acclimated to what it is being asked to do. The body gets stronger and I think the terrain gets easier at the same time, especially when you reach the Meseta. There is another aspect that takes place at about the same time. A certain rhythm to each day takes over. The walking itself becomes routine, at times effortless. More than that, all the decision making and resupply needs are known and taken care of before your head hits a pillow at night, leaving more focus for friendships and living in the moment. We are very fortunate that our finish timeline allows for mileage each day within our capabilities. At the end of the day our feet and legs might be sore and in need of rest, yet we sleep well and awaken refreshed able to do it again. Yes there is some stiffness starting in the mornings but that is usually gone in thirty minutes. Like I said, walking is pretty simple. Our favorite phrase is “traveling at 2 miles an hour is a great way to see the world”

Before starting to walk we have developed a routine reading our Brierley book on the segment we will walk that day and a spiritual devotion written by Richard Rohr. This gets our morning off and running both mentally and physically. Even our eating patterns have settled into a rhythm. The late meals were not working for us so now we try to get to a village and eat a late lunch which is the big meal for the day, settling for a light snack later and getting off to sleep earlier in the evening. Planning ahead we purchase something for the next day’s breakfast in the room and eat a second breakfast in the first open cafe after walking a few hours. This allows us to get an early start and usually arrive at our destination around mid afternoon to 3 o’clock with time to do laundry, eat, shop, and visit the sights in town.

I will be covering 2 days in this post.

Today is our rest day which means not walking more than 5 to 8 miles. Most of the path is a gradual walk downhill to Castrojeriz. With an early start of about 7:00 we should arrive at noon. There is plenty of solitude and off in the distance can be seen the ruins of the old town of San Miguel. Next is an old convent that has been turned into a hostel for traveling pilgrims. I wondered how rewarding an experience it would be to stay here. There is a communal meal for pilgrims staying here. That is always a memorable evening. Also there is no electricity here and something about night time in a 14th century stone building with I’m assuming only candlelight that kind of appeals to me. I wonder what the stars would look like out here in the wide open spaces at night. Eager to move on with only 3 miles to go we depart and arrive as expected around noon. Plenty of time to explore the town of 500 people. We spent an hour or so chatting with friends and enjoying the beautiful weather. The church of Santa Maria was pretty spectacular as was the Church of Saint Dominic that now is a museum of sacred art. There was also the ruins of a 9th century castle but it was a good climb to the top and we passed as this was our rest day. I did get some pictures looking up to the castle from the town. After dinner it was off to bed for an early start to Fromista 16 miles away.

Leaving Castrjierz is an enjoyable walk out of town of about a mile before a steep climb up to the Meseta. We started in the dark and made it up to the top in time for a gorgeous but windy and chilly sunrise. There were 10 or so other people there enjoying the moment but none remained long because the temperature was below 40 and the only way to stay warm was by walking. The climb up was steep but the descent was downright crazy. I can only compare it to the first climb and fall on a roller coaster.

Another mile or so and we pass another albergue San Nicolas 11th and 13th century buildings which have only basic facilities but does offer the ritual washing of the feet, communal dinner and only candlelight for illumination. With 10 miles to go we quickly passed through a couple of small villages and a long bridge with 11 arches over the rio Pisuerga. following the many canals and viaducts in the area.

Fromista itself is a town of 800 and provides many opportunities for dining and sleeping. First we had drinks and a long rest with our friends from Kentucky. Fromista is home to the church of San Martins, an interesting structure first consecrated in 1066 AD. Of Roman architecture it was restored and declared a National Monument.. A second church, San Pedro houses a religious art museum as well. Here we attended a one man concert for pilgrims listening to him play the flute, organ and demonstrating Gregorian chanting. It was a spectacular evening especially hearing the performance within the tall ceilings and stone walls.

Starting tomorrow the pace quickens…

Not a desert, too much rainfall for that, yet hot in summer and cold in winter. Elevated but not a mountain. A plateau that allows the eyes to see great distances in all directions. A place where it is hard to hide from the sun. Quiet except for the wind. This is the Meseta. On the camino, we will only walk a portion of the Meseta. We will walk 136 miles on the way from Burgos to Leon. It’s not a hard walk if you stay hydrated and shielded from the never ending sun. We were spared the most difficult temperatures, even beginning the day once with a brief shower that gifted us a delightful rainbow. Temperatures remained cool in the morning and 70’s in the day. Even so the constant sun takes a toll. The pathway is wide and footing is stable. Not having to worry about trips and falls gives you time to contemplate or ponder personal issues, put to rest old disagreements, moving forward with a renewed spirit free from the old wounded self. When you prepare your mind and heart each day, gratitude and humility will walk with you sharing what this day offers. Everyone hikes not only this path but any path for reasons only they can decide. I have learned to not judge other’s Camino nor what they receive. For myself, if I don’t come away a better person, I will have missed a great opportunity.

Carolyn and I have been intentional in our spiritual approach for this Camino. First we began reading from several devotional books each morning to orient our thinking toward being aware and present to who and what this camino has in store for us each day. One of the books was “A Pilgrim’s Guide To The Camino de Santiago written by John Brierley. It is packed with the information needed to negotiate and get the most out of this amazing adventure. More than just practical information it contains historical information on every step along the way, The author also challenges you daily with spiritual questions to contemplate as you walk. First he describes the practical path. Divided into 33 segments of about 20 to 25 kilometers with a map for each day including comments, warnings, and other valuble advice. This is followed by a description of the mystical path. Here I quote the mystical thoughts from the book for this day.

” Will we walk today with a forgiving heart or hold on to old hurts that keep us feeling separated from our fellow pilgrims? Will you find the sacred symbol of healing used by knights and monks, ancient and modern? Will you place your hand in the niche that offered bread to passing strangers and leave a mark of love. Will you break bread with a stranger today? Will we compound the problem or become part of the solution?” At the end he inserts a quote from another book or author. Today’s entry was from ” A Course In Miracles” The holiest place on earth is where an ancient hatred has become a present love…

The path today covers about 12.5 miles with only a couple gradual climbs. On today’s walk and really through all of the Meseta we will pass through a series of small towns each day that have supported pilgrims for over a thousand years. At the time of the 12th and 13th century, there were 250,000 pilgrims a year making this journey. Today we will be passing through towns such as Rabe de las Calzadas, Hornillos, and Hontanas. Total population around 350.

Passing through Rabe de las Calzadas early in the morning there was nothing open to get breakfast so we took advantage of some of the cafe chairs and table outside, eating whatever food we had left in our packs. Leaving the small town we entered the peaceful country side filled with huge sunflower fields. Next was a short climb which might have been harder in the heat but this morning was barely in the 40’s. Both sides of the road opened up into long stretches of wheat fields which had been recently harvested leaving only the remaining short stalks. I say wheat but in fact depending on the quality of soil and rainfall it might be oats or barley.The Meseta’s top is fairly flat and almost completely used for this type of agriculture. It’s vastness is hard to describe or capture in a picture. After just a few hours you could spot Hornillos the next town still a distance away. Hornillos has a population of only 60. There are a couple of cafe’s and several places to stay. We did stop for a snack at a bar that had several nice guitars hanging on the wall. The next cafe here had a sign advertising live blues, jazz, and opera music tonight. I was curious and went in. they were setting up for the evenings performance. I would like to have experienced that but we were staying 5 miles further down the road. The next day I spoke with others who did spend the night and it was quite an amazing performance by two brothers one of which did sing some opera.

We had a couple more hours walking so quickly left climbing back up to the Meseta. We came upon a roadside memorial. These aren’t just on the Meseta in particular but all along the Way there are crosses and memorials to pilgrims who have died on their Camino. Some of them more elaborate than others but all give you pause to think about their life and prayers for the family. My own family members that had passed on were on my mind this day. I spent time thinking and praying for each of them placing a rock at various points of the Meseta in remembrance of their lives.

The towns are usually at lower elevation so at some point you can usually see the church steeple off in the distance as you approach. I truly enjoy spotting the town from a distance and seeing the road wind down off the meseta anticipating a refreshing drink at a cafe. We walked down to Hontanas, a couple of miles ahead with a new friend, David from England. Hontanas, another Medieval town of 70 people is quite a happening place for it’s size with many places to stay and eat. A medium sized church that also housed an art gallery with some pretty cool pieces that reflect camino themes.

Castrojeriz and Fromista lay ahead…

We had to get an early start because today would be our longest mileage day of the trip. However, there would be many things to see along the way and the following morning we would be visiting an archaeological dig site. Atapuerca is an active dig site which was originally discovered by workers in 1964, cutting a path for a railway through rock in the area. Since work started in 1978 they have discovered evidence of the earliest humans in Europe. 32 people male and female of varying age have been found here. In the area there are now several other sites which contain the greatest number of human fossils in the world.

But first we have to walk 18 miles to get there. Most of the day we will be walking following the main corridor N120. It was raining and dark when we left that morning. Crossing the bridge out of town I told Carolyn to shine her head lamp on the bridge and let me get a picture. We heard two voices from under the bridge yelling to us “Buen Camino” which means wish you well on your Camino. I could barely make out two people in sleeping bags and yelled back “Is it you Brian and Sean? It was them! Another chance meeting with fellow pilgrims whom we first met at a special service for the pilgrims starting from St. Jean on day 1 of our Camino. We hadn’t seen or heard from them in 10 days or back before Pamplona. They are really doing it the hard way camping outside. This time in the cold rain. I admire them for their tenacity and spirit. Buen Camino Brian and Sean!

Onward we walked letting the sunrise and breaking clouds brighten our day. Walking on mostly a wide gravel path in the middle of open farmland, sunflowers, and cut wheat fields we passed through no less than 7 villages.The most prominent being Villafranca (pop. 200) which welcomed pilgrims back to 900 AD and San Juan de Ortega (pop 200). San Juan was a disciple of Santo Domingo and also helped the many pilgrims passing through the area even building an Augustinian monastery here in 1150 AD.
Around 10o’clock I noticed a small structure with an archway next to the road. I took some pictures and read a sign board which dated the structure at 900 AD. It was all that was left of an old monastery and contained the remains of the founder of Burgos Count Diego Porcelos.

From here VillaFranca could be seen.
We were making good progress but stopped at a food market and bought bread and cheese for lunch later down the road. Leaving VillaFranca we passed through a beautiful forest with huge patches of heather. Spotting a food truck parked on the road in the middle of nowhere we stopped to see what he had for sale and met two pilgrims from North Carolina, Burt and Ashley. The great conversation we had with them as we walked quickly passed the time. We parted ways at San Juan Ortega exchanging numbers and have kept in touch since. Deciding against a lunch of bread and cheese (it would keep for another day) we gobbled down a pizza. You don’t see it often here so you better not pass it up! Here we met two more people at lunch, Seward and Ann. Walking alone to the next small town, Ages (pop 60), we were only 2.5 miles from Atapuerca. Here we struck up separate conversations, Carolyn with Hugh from Colorado and me with Dan and Ada from California. What a great day! From raining and wondering how difficult it might be to meeting and connecting with so many new friends. The 18 miles were a breeze because of the company and the energy that is part of this Camino.
Finally we arrived at Auburgue Impulso our stop for the night. A communal meal using ingredients grown on the property would be served by the hostess Estrella. She is a former pilgrim who was filled with a deep appreciation and love for what the Camino represents both physically and spiritually. Estrella’s energy along with the building and its furnishings made one truly feel transported to the distant past. The Camino miles you travel are physical but the changes that take place within can’t be measured in miles.
On to Atapuerca and Burgos…

The Camino has a way to make chance meetings more meaningful. On to Atapuerca, Burgos, and Tjardajos…