Tag: hiking

The Way takes a step back in Rabanal

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In the morning we had a wonderful breakfast downstairs provided by the hosts and were genuinely excited for the day. I can’t say enough about the hospitality and beauty of Molino Galochas. Once it served the community as mill for grinding the grain of the region and now a place for pilgrims to rest as they travel to Santiago de Compostela. Since the Middle Ages, the name Compostella refers to the field of stars that make up the Milky Way. We said our goodbyes to our hosts and friends outside the front door and began eagerly walking away from our home for the night, anticipating another special day of experiences. The weariness of yesterday was helped by a restful night. My symptoms once again seemed improved yet what I hoped was a very bad cold hadn’t resolved and in fact would get worse as we walked toward Astorga.

I felt hopeful by the perfect weather, and excited despite my cough. It was concerning to me because it seemed very much like an earlier sickness I weathered last December on the Appalachian Trail in Georgia. That hike ended six miles and one mountain early because of pneumonia. I also had my 2000 mile Appalachian Trail attempt cut short by injury back in 2019. Despite my spiritual goals for this journey, deep down I had a need and desire to complete the 500 miles. So with some anxiety I tried to stay in the moment. The morning sunshine provided warmth for my attitude and the hiking was enjoyable. Though technically we were past the Meseta, the terrain still felt the same along with the solitude necessary for meditation. I stopped for a few minutes to rest and contemplate about my brother Bob who passed away two years ago. Those thoughts led to others about my four remaining siblings who on this day walked with me step by step. Only a few days ago I had placed rocks at varying spots for my Mother and Father, Grandparents and Aunts and Uncles. Laying down these stones can provide oppurtunites of healing, joy, and gratitude for each of their lives and the role they played in mine. Here, near Villares de Orbigo, I gathered fifteen stones and a rock, making a complete hand spread across the ground, each finger representing one of my four siblings and myself. The rock signified the palm of the hand and my brother.  Despite many trials and difficult circumstances through the years we remain joined like fingers to a hand. A somber moment on a plateau that over time will change, but my memory of that place will not.

Around mile nine, the path went up a steep rise to a flat stretch of road. Ahead could be seen some small structures with a number of people gathered. Getting closer I heard music being played. I followed my ears and found two people playing guitars under a canopy. Food and drinks were available for the taking, asking just a donation if you felt inspired to do so. There were mats for yoga, couches and mattresses for relaxing, and a labyrinth for meditation. The spirit of the hosts and the Camino were here and on display for any and all the pilgrims who felt the need to stop and rest. This was truly an unexpected gift and was appreciated and reciprocated in kind. The air was filled with goodness and and caring for all fellow humans. This was the essence of the Camino. The place was begging me to stay knowing just how rare and precious these moments appear in our lives. We lingered as long as we could resting and eating, before continuing on to Astorga. Which surprisingly was in sight soon after as we walked back down the very hill, that led us to such a magical place. I believe it was la Casade los Dioses.

Astorga (pop 12000) is home to a great Cathedral that was built from earlier structures (11th-13th centuries) but used a different style of architecture in the 14th century and then again upon completion in the 18th century. The walls contain many sculptures and paintings from this period of over 400 years. The city itself has a long history of Roman and Muslim control going back to at least 14 BC. We continued to be in awe, yet only partially grasping the significance of the history that our feet and eyes witness each day as we get closer to Santiago. 

We walked the 11 miles to Astorga in 5 hours, it was early afternoon and our room was not ready so we left our packs and toured the city. Most of the restaurants we wished to eat at were either not serving during siesta or didn’t have a vegetarian option for Carolyn. We decided on cheese and tortilla from a grocery store, eating on a bench in the square. Too tired to tour the Cathedral and the Palace which was designed by the famous Spanish architect Gaudi. We decided to go back to the hotel and were in bed at 7.

Overnight I felt like I might have a fever and the worst sore throat I can remember. The next day I felt somewhat better again and had a great breakfast in the hotel. We were on the road at 8 o’clock. The walk was pleasant enough but now my cough and throat did not let up. I started to fear this sickness might end my Camino. I’ve already written about my fear of not finishing this journey. A selfish fear maybe but real just the same. Fears can consume our moods and at this point I was not a good partner nor a good hiking companion. Determined to not let this sickness derail our Walk, I started hiking faster leaving Carolyn behind wondering what was going on with me. I didn’t communicate how bad I felt or my fear that I might have to end this journey. We had an 820 ft. climb to get to Rabanal yet somehow I mustered enough strength to walk the 11.5 miles in 5 hours. At a cafe in Rabanal I ate a very good hamburger and fries and a beer. Obviously my appetite was still good. How sick could I be? I didn’t feel good but more than that I was done for the day and just wanted a room. Sadly that wasn’t going to happen. The hotel we booked for the night was in this town but it was located at the bottom of the mountain we had just climbed. I was so ready to lay down, but there was no taxi. Rabanal is a small town and there would be few rooms. I suggested walking back down the 3 miles because that also is where our luggage had been delivered. Carolyn had been offered a massage that had just opened up due to a cancellation and decided to take it and then we would figure out a solution to our predicament. I toured a small chapel and went outside sitting in the sun against the brick wall of a building. Within the hour, whatever sickness I had, spread to my entire body. I needed a doctor. This post has been long enough so I will end this part of the story here. Just know that the Camino provided!

The Journey continues but where and when or better said what will the Camino provide?…

Free Tortilla, lunch on a bench and Molino Galochas, a true Camino

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Events over the next 4 days forced major changes in our itinerary. At the same time we experienced the goodness of the people living along the ancient route of St. James. This is the story of how our plans and desires collided with adversity and the people who took it upon themselves to offer assistance. Basically their efforts saved our Camino.

The taxi let us out at La Virgen Del Camino 5 miles outside Leon. Starting at the outskirts of the city we still had a 14 mile walk on this day. The cities are filled with wonderful experiences but a walking pilgrim needs solitude away from the endless distractions they offer. The scenery quickly changed from the noise of rushing traffic and busy intersections into a peaceful hike through the countryside. There would be only a few places to stop for food on the optional path we chose today. The main route followed a more direct route along the busier road N 120. In just a short walk we passed through Fresno del Camino a tiny town that was still asleep, so breakfast would have to wait. More importantly I did not find a public water fountain which meant I would definitely need to refill in the next town. I have been carrying less water (less weight) and, depending on these little towns we pass through each day for resupply. This will not be a problem today as the next town is only 3 miles further. We continued on the gravel road through the scrubland that dominates the landscape, reminding me of what I think the Australian outback would look like. The sun rose steadily as did the 46 degree temperature from early morning. Sunscreen is a must, not just for today but essentially everyday.

Around 10 0’clock we reached Chojas de Abajo another small town with a nice cafe. Many of the buildings here are quite old and in disrepair which when entering the town hinted of a dying town, but there is new construction and infrastructure as well that points to a thriving community. Here we were able to get drinks, (orange Fanta for me) that came with a free Tortilla for breakfast. The shear remoteness of these towns almost demands that something survive. I was grateful for the food and a much needed refill of water. While we enjoyed our brief rest several locals gathered for morning coffee and a few other pilgrims arrived making the place a busy center of the town. Without any feeling of urgency or desire to leave we hesitatingly left our table easing back into the direction of Villar de Mazarife.

It has been a peaceful walk today. Scanning the flat land in all directions we walk alone and in silence. The mind can rest without worry or preoccupations, contemplating what it means to live in this moment, Much like a book I recently “Another Day Not Wasted“. This is the Camino! An hour and a half later we walked into Mazarife.

Mazarife (pop 800) had several cafes but we decided to purchase some bread, cheese and a drink, eating it on a bench in front of the grocery store, while watching a few cars and a delivery truck pass by in the main square. After eating, we quickly checked out a small church which was closed, and a painted mural by a local artist on the side of the grocery store. Refreshed and with six more miles to go on an increasingly warm afternoon, we headed to Villavante and Molino Galochas.

Once again the road we walked out of town was straight and flat for miles . Instead of the morning scrubland, fields of corn lined both sides of the road, irrigated by an old system of canals and concrete aquaducts. Looking straight ahead the road seemed to go on forever. After walking for over an hour we approached a crossroads and once there it appeared as if we hadn’t made any progress. This same pattern repeated for six miles. It became rather demoralizing especially as the day grew hotter. Finally the road curved to the right as we crossed a canal, yet the town was still an hour away. Once in Villavante, we had some difficulty finding our way to Molino Galochas, an old mill turned into a Bed and Breakfast. I was tired and very glad to have arrived. I didn’t know it yet but my body was slowly surrendering to a virus.

We were greeted by a mother and daughter who immediately made us feel at home. Dinner would be served at six, so after showers all the guests gathered around a table outside with a glass of wine on the beautiful property. We all shared personal stories that would bind our friendships while the proprietors picked fruit and vegetables from the garden for our evening meal. The food prepared for us was delicious and I can truly say the atmosphere was such that we felt treated like family members who were spending the night. This hospitality would continue the next day when we said goodbye in the front yard. Due to my not feeling well I kept my distance as best I could though I never felt bad while hiking. However in just a few days I would need to seek medical help. First there was 11.5 miles to Astorga and 12.8 to Rabinal de Camino. A wild two days were ahead….

GETTING TRAIL LEGS! Mile 82

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Estella to Los Arcos

After a good nights sleep we wanted to get a quick start so we planned to eat breakfast on the way to the trail. The best option was a gas station/convenience store. The choices were limited but in actuality pretty good. We quickly ate and got on trail by 8:30. Just outside the city we came upon a blacksmith shop.He had some interesting items out front so we went in. The amount of items in his inventory was impressive. I was able to ask him some questions about his trade despite my broken Spanish and his broken English. Each of his children are artists but none have followed him into the blacksmithing trade. He had one piece I would’ve purchased but it was too expensive to ship and I wasn’t going to carry it the 400 plus miles we had left. 
Next was a winery which had a free  tap for samples but I passed due to the early morning hour.

At the two mile mark we had a choice to go left or right. Distance wise they were about the same, the way left might include a bit more elevation gain. We chose left because it would take us into the wooded forest of Montejurra. It was a special hike through woodlands and we only saw a few others along the way. The highlight though was a herd of sheep and shepherd along with his dog crossing the road to new pasture. 

Stopping for lunch in the town of Luquin. It seemed to be a bar and restaurant. There was also a local pool and community center. We ordered drinks and ate some bread and cheese left in our packs from a previous day along with some grapes and paprika Pringles which are quite tasty but as far as I know aren’t sold in the USA. Rejoining the main Camino route we passed by fields of asparagus. The six mile walk after lunch was pleasant enough but we were happy to see the church steeple in the distance  just a mile or two away.

Once in the city, showered and feeling refreshed we did what hikers do and went for a walk visiting the cathedral. Then it was time for supper. In Spain people eat late so sometimes the main menu isn’t served until after 7 or later. Los Arcos is a small town (pop 1200) and dining options are limited. Pilgrims like to eat early so that’s  when you meet new friends or reconnect with others you haven’t seen for a few days.Then it was back to our lodging and off to sleep.Today was 13.5 miles but it seems our legs are getting stronger. It was the most enjoyable hiking of the trip so far.

THE JOURNEY CONTINUES TO… Vianna only 11 miles away