Events over the next 4 days forced major changes in our itinerary. At the same time we experienced the goodness of the people living along the ancient route of St. James. This is the story of how our plans and desires collided with adversity and the people who took it upon themselves to offer assistance. Basically their efforts saved our Camino.
The taxi let us out at La Virgen Del Camino 5 miles outside Leon. Starting at the outskirts of the city we still had a 14 mile walk on this day. The cities are filled with wonderful experiences but a walking pilgrim needs solitude away from the endless distractions they offer. The scenery quickly changed from the noise of rushing traffic and busy intersections into a peaceful hike through the countryside. There would be only a few places to stop for food on the optional path we chose today. The main route followed a more direct route along the busier road N 120. In just a short walk we passed through Fresno del Camino a tiny town that was still asleep, so breakfast would have to wait. More importantly I did not find a public water fountain which meant I would definitely need to refill in the next town. I have been carrying less water (less weight) and, depending on these little towns we pass through each day for resupply. This will not be a problem today as the next town is only 3 miles further. We continued on the gravel road through the scrubland that dominates the landscape, reminding me of what I think the Australian outback would look like. The sun rose steadily as did the 46 degree temperature from early morning. Sunscreen is a must, not just for today but essentially everyday.
Around 10 0’clock we reached Chojas de Abajo another small town with a nice cafe. Many of the buildings here are quite old and in disrepair which when entering the town hinted of a dying town, but there is new construction and infrastructure as well that points to a thriving community. Here we were able to get drinks, (orange Fanta for me) that came with a free Tortilla for breakfast. The shear remoteness of these towns almost demands that something survive. I was grateful for the food and a much needed refill of water. While we enjoyed our brief rest several locals gathered for morning coffee and a few other pilgrims arrived making the place a busy center of the town. Without any feeling of urgency or desire to leave we hesitatingly left our table easing back into the direction of Villar de Mazarife.
It has been a peaceful walk today. Scanning the flat land in all directions we walk alone and in silence. The mind can rest without worry or preoccupations, contemplating what it means to live in this moment, Much like a book I recently “Another Day Not Wasted“. This is the Camino! An hour and a half later we walked into Mazarife.
Mazarife (pop 800) had several cafes but we decided to purchase some bread, cheese and a drink, eating it on a bench in front of the grocery store, while watching a few cars and a delivery truck pass by in the main square. After eating, we quickly checked out a small church which was closed, and a painted mural by a local artist on the side of the grocery store. Refreshed and with six more miles to go on an increasingly warm afternoon, we headed to Villavante and Molino Galochas.
Once again the road we walked out of town was straight and flat for miles . Instead of the morning scrubland, fields of corn lined both sides of the road, irrigated by an old system of canals and concrete aquaducts. Looking straight ahead the road seemed to go on forever. After walking for over an hour we approached a crossroads and once there it appeared as if we hadn’t made any progress. This same pattern repeated for six miles. It became rather demoralizing especially as the day grew hotter. Finally the road curved to the right as we crossed a canal, yet the town was still an hour away. Once in Villavante, we had some difficulty finding our way to Molino Galochas, an old mill turned into a Bed and Breakfast. I was tired and very glad to have arrived. I didn’t know it yet but my body was slowly surrendering to a virus.
We were greeted by a mother and daughter who immediately made us feel at home. Dinner would be served at six, so after showers all the guests gathered around a table outside with a glass of wine on the beautiful property. We all shared personal stories that would bind our friendships while the proprietors picked fruit and vegetables from the garden for our evening meal. The food prepared for us was delicious and I can truly say the atmosphere was such that we felt treated like family members who were spending the night. This hospitality would continue the next day when we said goodbye in the front yard. Due to my not feeling well I kept my distance as best I could though I never felt bad while hiking. However in just a few days I would need to seek medical help. First there was 11.5 miles to Astorga and 12.8 to Rabinal de Camino. A wild two days were ahead….
Walking in Wilderness 