Tag: travel

The Way takes a step back in Rabanal

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In the morning we had a wonderful breakfast downstairs provided by the hosts and were genuinely excited for the day. I can’t say enough about the hospitality and beauty of Molino Galochas. Once it served the community as mill for grinding the grain of the region and now a place for pilgrims to rest as they travel to Santiago de Compostela. Since the Middle Ages, the name Compostella refers to the field of stars that make up the Milky Way. We said our goodbyes to our hosts and friends outside the front door and began eagerly walking away from our home for the night, anticipating another special day of experiences. The weariness of yesterday was helped by a restful night. My symptoms once again seemed improved yet what I hoped was a very bad cold hadn’t resolved and in fact would get worse as we walked toward Astorga.

I felt hopeful by the perfect weather, and excited despite my cough. It was concerning to me because it seemed very much like an earlier sickness I weathered last December on the Appalachian Trail in Georgia. That hike ended six miles and one mountain early because of pneumonia. I also had my 2000 mile Appalachian Trail attempt cut short by injury back in 2019. Despite my spiritual goals for this journey, deep down I had a need and desire to complete the 500 miles. So with some anxiety I tried to stay in the moment. The morning sunshine provided warmth for my attitude and the hiking was enjoyable. Though technically we were past the Meseta, the terrain still felt the same along with the solitude necessary for meditation. I stopped for a few minutes to rest and contemplate about my brother Bob who passed away two years ago. Those thoughts led to others about my four remaining siblings who on this day walked with me step by step. Only a few days ago I had placed rocks at varying spots for my Mother and Father, Grandparents and Aunts and Uncles. Laying down these stones can provide oppurtunites of healing, joy, and gratitude for each of their lives and the role they played in mine. Here, near Villares de Orbigo, I gathered fifteen stones and a rock, making a complete hand spread across the ground, each finger representing one of my four siblings and myself. The rock signified the palm of the hand and my brother.  Despite many trials and difficult circumstances through the years we remain joined like fingers to a hand. A somber moment on a plateau that over time will change, but my memory of that place will not.

Around mile nine, the path went up a steep rise to a flat stretch of road. Ahead could be seen some small structures with a number of people gathered. Getting closer I heard music being played. I followed my ears and found two people playing guitars under a canopy. Food and drinks were available for the taking, asking just a donation if you felt inspired to do so. There were mats for yoga, couches and mattresses for relaxing, and a labyrinth for meditation. The spirit of the hosts and the Camino were here and on display for any and all the pilgrims who felt the need to stop and rest. This was truly an unexpected gift and was appreciated and reciprocated in kind. The air was filled with goodness and and caring for all fellow humans. This was the essence of the Camino. The place was begging me to stay knowing just how rare and precious these moments appear in our lives. We lingered as long as we could resting and eating, before continuing on to Astorga. Which surprisingly was in sight soon after as we walked back down the very hill, that led us to such a magical place. I believe it was la Casade los Dioses.

Astorga (pop 12000) is home to a great Cathedral that was built from earlier structures (11th-13th centuries) but used a different style of architecture in the 14th century and then again upon completion in the 18th century. The walls contain many sculptures and paintings from this period of over 400 years. The city itself has a long history of Roman and Muslim control going back to at least 14 BC. We continued to be in awe, yet only partially grasping the significance of the history that our feet and eyes witness each day as we get closer to Santiago. 

We walked the 11 miles to Astorga in 5 hours, it was early afternoon and our room was not ready so we left our packs and toured the city. Most of the restaurants we wished to eat at were either not serving during siesta or didn’t have a vegetarian option for Carolyn. We decided on cheese and tortilla from a grocery store, eating on a bench in the square. Too tired to tour the Cathedral and the Palace which was designed by the famous Spanish architect Gaudi. We decided to go back to the hotel and were in bed at 7.

Overnight I felt like I might have a fever and the worst sore throat I can remember. The next day I felt somewhat better again and had a great breakfast in the hotel. We were on the road at 8 o’clock. The walk was pleasant enough but now my cough and throat did not let up. I started to fear this sickness might end my Camino. I’ve already written about my fear of not finishing this journey. A selfish fear maybe but real just the same. Fears can consume our moods and at this point I was not a good partner nor a good hiking companion. Determined to not let this sickness derail our Walk, I started hiking faster leaving Carolyn behind wondering what was going on with me. I didn’t communicate how bad I felt or my fear that I might have to end this journey. We had an 820 ft. climb to get to Rabanal yet somehow I mustered enough strength to walk the 11.5 miles in 5 hours. At a cafe in Rabanal I ate a very good hamburger and fries and a beer. Obviously my appetite was still good. How sick could I be? I didn’t feel good but more than that I was done for the day and just wanted a room. Sadly that wasn’t going to happen. The hotel we booked for the night was in this town but it was located at the bottom of the mountain we had just climbed. I was so ready to lay down, but there was no taxi. Rabanal is a small town and there would be few rooms. I suggested walking back down the 3 miles because that also is where our luggage had been delivered. Carolyn had been offered a massage that had just opened up due to a cancellation and decided to take it and then we would figure out a solution to our predicament. I toured a small chapel and went outside sitting in the sun against the brick wall of a building. Within the hour, whatever sickness I had, spread to my entire body. I needed a doctor. This post has been long enough so I will end this part of the story here. Just know that the Camino provided!

The Journey continues but where and when or better said what will the Camino provide?…

Free Tortilla, lunch on a bench and Molino Galochas, a true Camino

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Events over the next 4 days forced major changes in our itinerary. At the same time we experienced the goodness of the people living along the ancient route of St. James. This is the story of how our plans and desires collided with adversity and the people who took it upon themselves to offer assistance. Basically their efforts saved our Camino.

The taxi let us out at La Virgen Del Camino 5 miles outside Leon. Starting at the outskirts of the city we still had a 14 mile walk on this day. The cities are filled with wonderful experiences but a walking pilgrim needs solitude away from the endless distractions they offer. The scenery quickly changed from the noise of rushing traffic and busy intersections into a peaceful hike through the countryside. There would be only a few places to stop for food on the optional path we chose today. The main route followed a more direct route along the busier road N 120. In just a short walk we passed through Fresno del Camino a tiny town that was still asleep, so breakfast would have to wait. More importantly I did not find a public water fountain which meant I would definitely need to refill in the next town. I have been carrying less water (less weight) and, depending on these little towns we pass through each day for resupply. This will not be a problem today as the next town is only 3 miles further. We continued on the gravel road through the scrubland that dominates the landscape, reminding me of what I think the Australian outback would look like. The sun rose steadily as did the 46 degree temperature from early morning. Sunscreen is a must, not just for today but essentially everyday.

Around 10 0’clock we reached Chojas de Abajo another small town with a nice cafe. Many of the buildings here are quite old and in disrepair which when entering the town hinted of a dying town, but there is new construction and infrastructure as well that points to a thriving community. Here we were able to get drinks, (orange Fanta for me) that came with a free Tortilla for breakfast. The shear remoteness of these towns almost demands that something survive. I was grateful for the food and a much needed refill of water. While we enjoyed our brief rest several locals gathered for morning coffee and a few other pilgrims arrived making the place a busy center of the town. Without any feeling of urgency or desire to leave we hesitatingly left our table easing back into the direction of Villar de Mazarife.

It has been a peaceful walk today. Scanning the flat land in all directions we walk alone and in silence. The mind can rest without worry or preoccupations, contemplating what it means to live in this moment, Much like a book I recently “Another Day Not Wasted“. This is the Camino! An hour and a half later we walked into Mazarife.

Mazarife (pop 800) had several cafes but we decided to purchase some bread, cheese and a drink, eating it on a bench in front of the grocery store, while watching a few cars and a delivery truck pass by in the main square. After eating, we quickly checked out a small church which was closed, and a painted mural by a local artist on the side of the grocery store. Refreshed and with six more miles to go on an increasingly warm afternoon, we headed to Villavante and Molino Galochas.

Once again the road we walked out of town was straight and flat for miles . Instead of the morning scrubland, fields of corn lined both sides of the road, irrigated by an old system of canals and concrete aquaducts. Looking straight ahead the road seemed to go on forever. After walking for over an hour we approached a crossroads and once there it appeared as if we hadn’t made any progress. This same pattern repeated for six miles. It became rather demoralizing especially as the day grew hotter. Finally the road curved to the right as we crossed a canal, yet the town was still an hour away. Once in Villavante, we had some difficulty finding our way to Molino Galochas, an old mill turned into a Bed and Breakfast. I was tired and very glad to have arrived. I didn’t know it yet but my body was slowly surrendering to a virus.

We were greeted by a mother and daughter who immediately made us feel at home. Dinner would be served at six, so after showers all the guests gathered around a table outside with a glass of wine on the beautiful property. We all shared personal stories that would bind our friendships while the proprietors picked fruit and vegetables from the garden for our evening meal. The food prepared for us was delicious and I can truly say the atmosphere was such that we felt treated like family members who were spending the night. This hospitality would continue the next day when we said goodbye in the front yard. Due to my not feeling well I kept my distance as best I could though I never felt bad while hiking. However in just a few days I would need to seek medical help. First there was 11.5 miles to Astorga and 12.8 to Rabinal de Camino. A wild two days were ahead….

Mansilla de las Mulas and the great city of Leon

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Though I slept ok, it wasn’t a difficult decision to wake up early and leave the bunk bed this morning, Carolyn had been up even earlier. The bed was not kind to her back and she was in need of the exercises that have kept her walking mostly pain free. Luckily we found an unused kitchen/ common area and she was good to go. Starting at 7:30 we saw a few others walking ahead in the shadows. Today’s walk is mostly on a gravel path beside a sparsely traveled highway. At 9:30 we had walked 4 miles reaching the town of El Burgo Ranero (pop 841). A nice cafe was open and Carolyn got some french toast and I had a creme filled pastry. We continued on next to the highway, fields of corn and sunflowers to on each side, seemingly unbroken except for a mountain chain off in the distance. The only other notable sights were a shepherd and his dogs moving a large flock of sheep from one field to another and a train that was headed in the direction back toward Bercianos, the town we departed from this morning.

Staying on this pathway for four more hours brought us to the town of Raliegos, not much bigger than the town before where we had breakfast but somehow it did seem bigger and more food options were available now that it was afternoon. We decided to sit at tables in front of the grocery store where we purchased tortillas and cheese, along with soft drinks, and chips. There were three young men from California seated near us and in any other setting the five of us probably would have never interacted with each other. They were friends in their early twenties. One of them had the idea to come and walk the Camino before he starting boot camp in the Army. The other two just thought it looked like fun and agreed to go along. All of them were surprised on how difficult it is most days but I think they were just happy to be doing it together. We talked longer than we planned and said goodbye and good luck and started for our destination only 3 more miles to Mulas de las Mansilla. It was 3:30 before we reached the edge of town and Carolyn had started hurting. She spotted a concrete bench, laid down to do her stretches. Just like her daily routine. It worked and she walked into town pain free. Arriving at the hotel we found a couple of friends and a long line registering for rooms. We got some drinks and waited while the staff hustled to accomodate everyone. It turned out our room was a block away at another property.

It was getting late in the afternoon by the time we were able to explore the town. It was obvious from the decorations lining the streets there was a festival being planned and quite a bit of partying going on. I heard music and noticed a crowd down the street. A bar was holding a raffle to raise funds for a band to go on tour. Carolyn bought two tickets and won the biggest prize offered, a miniature keyboard that could hook up to a computer screen. As I said, everyone was having a good time and made us feel part of the group. After that we did a quick tour of the church which was well worth the stop and then decided to have dinner at the hotel. Lee and Molly from Kentucky were there and during the conversation talked about riding the bus to Leon the next morning. We concurred because though it is only 11 miles to Leon, over half of it is on concrete through factories and warehouses. The other half follows a very busy and dangerous highway. Riding the bus would give us more time to explore the city of Leon (pop 125,000) and give our feet and legs a break from the concrete.

The next morning we took the first bus to Leon leaving at 8:15 am. Arriving around 9:00, we immediately walked to the hotel stored our packs and had a delicious breakfast at the hotel. It just happened to be a Sunday so we decided to take a tour of the cathedral because it would close for Mass at 12:00. The cathedral itself has quite a history as Leon was conquered by the Visigoths from Germany, the Romans, and the Moors from Africa, and finally the Christians reconquered Spain in 1492.

The first stone of the cathedral was laid in 1205 yet not completed for almost a hundred years in 1302. In the 19th century the facade underwent a major restoration. Much of the 125 stained glass windows, which by the way total 19,375 square feet in area are from the 13th century to 15th century. After touring we decided to stay for Mass and afterward watched and heard the organist play the postlude which was quite a performance under the 98 feet high stone ceilings.

There was more to see in Leon but first we had to have lunch. Deciding to take a break from Spanish food we found an Indian restaurant which was really special. The waiter spoke pretty good English and had time to talk making our dining experience more than just a meal! Then it was off to the Anton Gaudi museum to learn about the life and career of this Spanish architect. The building that houses the museum itself is designed by Gaudi (1852-1926). Walking the four floors of the museum I got an appreciation for how extraordinary and modern his work is, even by today’s standards. As the afternoon got later I really appreciated the bus ride this morning and with tired legs we made our way back to the hotel and a comfortable bed. It was a wonderful experience in Leon even though we only skimmed the surface of the things it offered. Tomorrow the Camino is 19 miles but once again we decided to taxi a few miles instead of suffering the concrete, stoplights, and traffic. The starting point will be at La Virgen Del Camino following the wooded path to Villavante and special a place Carolyn remembers from her last camino, Molino Galochas

LEON

Approaching Sahagun the halfway point

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We have had so many experiences thus far on this Camino and yet we haven’t reached the halfway point. That milestone is approaching in the next two days. The variety and depth of experiences is hard to process because each day brings additional interactions and scenery not to mention slight changes in culture. Most of what all this means will have to wait until we arrive back home. For now each new day is to be lived from beginning to end until the next one arrives. The pace though will have to accelerate as the miles walked in the first 20 days will need to be covered in 14. There will be no more short rest days and several of our longest days are ahead. Carolyn set up the schedule and has done an excellent job of getting us to this point. We are stronger and more confident. A few more miles each day is a very doable task. Using her first experience on the Camino she has made excellent choices for our accommodations. At night we have rested well, something that is so important on long hikes..This next post will cover the 2 days from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes followed by 15 miles to Ledigos

As usual we left Fromista in the dark but this time we had a good breakfast at the hotel. Just about everywhere in Spain you can get a tortilla which is a potato and egg dish similar to quiche and quite tasty. Just outside the main part of town we took the more scenic optional path. On this route we came upon some friends from Kentucky, Lee and Molly, that we had met a couple of days before. Lee and I had a very deep discussion about our faith, simply sharing and listening. There was no agenda to change or declare a right viewpoint, only sharing without judgement. These kinds of conversations make significant bonds between people who probably would never have even interacted with each other except on a journey of this kind.

Along the way we also saw quite a few other people we knew in the little towns we passed through this day. One of closest of them was Shona, who has a set schedule different from ours and we discovered after today we will not see her again. We wished her well and will keep in touch with her after the Camino. Hopefully we can travel to England and see her again. The process of planning your Camino or simply walking and planning as you go is a decision each pilgrim has to make for themselves. It proved to be a little controversial amongst pilgrims and I will comment on that subject on my last post after we finish the journey.

The scenic path we chose today joins back into the main path at mile 10 beside a well traveled road near the town of Villalzacar de Sirga where the 13 century Knights Templar church of Santa Maria resides. This is a National Monument and houses the tombs of several members of Royalty within its walls.

The Path was easy today and we arrived at our destination, Carrion de Los Condes, around 2 o’clock. According to the Brierley book this town was once home to 10,000 people and had 14 hospitals serving the pilgrims on their way to Santiago. At some point in time it had been under rule of the Moors from Africa, who controlled parts of Spain for over 700 hundred years. It is here the movie El Cid about a Castillian warlord fighting Christians and Moors to restore his honor in the 11th century is loosely based . However I have read since then, the movie is mostly untrue. Having seen these places I am inspired to dig deeper into this period of Spain’s history.

Once in our hotel we changed shoes and went back out to have lunch at Cafe Naturale. Food choices have been a challenge in Spain. I have found several dishes that I really like but they are not always available. Carolyn too has been challenged to locate vegetarian options but this place fit both our desires. I was able to get a true American hamburger with a bun and fries and Carolyn had calamari and grilled vegetables. Afterwards, we cleaned up and attended a guitar concert at a local church which once again was sponsored to help artists entertain Pilgrims along the way. This night there was a concert of four acoustic guitarists from the Netherlands. What a joyful experience after this days walk! Tomorrow is 15 miles to Terradillos de los Ledigos with few stops along the way and our first climb in a few days…

A few pictures from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes

Once again we headed out under darkness and cold temperatures over roads built by the Romans toward Teradillos de los Templarios. This road, now covered with gravel, is 2000 years old. The path is a slow climb over 12 miles and finally a short steep climb into the town. There are wide open spaces for most of the way and one stop at Calzadilla, home to 60 people. Because this is the only stopping point, we had lunch here along with everybody else that passes this way. Ledigos is only 3 miles away and we arrive at 2:00 o’clock, averaging around 3 miles an hour. When there are no villages to stop along the way a quicker arrival time is possible

This evening we had dinner with Christian and Mary Ann from Denmark. We met them on our first night back in Borda on the French side of the Pyrenees. Mary Ann has to go back to work in a few days so they will be leaving at the half way point in Sagahun. Next year they will continue from there to Santiago. Sadly this will be the last time we see them. It was great to get to know them and if I remember correctly the only couple we saw the entire journey to this point. Tomorrow we will walk 15 miles to Berciano and pass the halfway point along the way…

The rhythm of each day settles in

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We have been walking now for 17 straight days. The first week the excitement carries you forward as your body gets acclimated to what it is being asked to do. The body gets stronger and I think the terrain gets easier at the same time, especially when you reach the Meseta. There is another aspect that takes place at about the same time. A certain rhythm to each day takes over. The walking itself becomes routine, at times effortless. More than that, all the decision making and resupply needs are known and taken care of before your head hits a pillow at night, leaving more focus for friendships and living in the moment. We are very fortunate that our finish timeline allows for mileage each day within our capabilities. At the end of the day our feet and legs might be sore and in need of rest, yet we sleep well and awaken refreshed able to do it again. Yes there is some stiffness starting in the mornings but that is usually gone in thirty minutes. Like I said, walking is pretty simple. Our favorite phrase is “traveling at 2 miles an hour is a great way to see the world”

Before starting to walk we have developed a routine reading our Brierley book on the segment we will walk that day and a spiritual devotion written by Richard Rohr. This gets our morning off and running both mentally and physically. Even our eating patterns have settled into a rhythm. The late meals were not working for us so now we try to get to a village and eat a late lunch which is the big meal for the day, settling for a light snack later and getting off to sleep earlier in the evening. Planning ahead we purchase something for the next day’s breakfast in the room and eat a second breakfast in the first open cafe after walking a few hours. This allows us to get an early start and usually arrive at our destination around mid afternoon to 3 o’clock with time to do laundry, eat, shop, and visit the sights in town.

I will be covering 2 days in this post.

Today is our rest day which means not walking more than 5 to 8 miles. Most of the path is a gradual walk downhill to Castrojeriz. With an early start of about 7:00 we should arrive at noon. There is plenty of solitude and off in the distance can be seen the ruins of the old town of San Miguel. Next is an old convent that has been turned into a hostel for traveling pilgrims. I wondered how rewarding an experience it would be to stay here. There is a communal meal for pilgrims staying here. That is always a memorable evening. Also there is no electricity here and something about night time in a 14th century stone building with I’m assuming only candlelight that kind of appeals to me. I wonder what the stars would look like out here in the wide open spaces at night. Eager to move on with only 3 miles to go we depart and arrive as expected around noon. Plenty of time to explore the town of 500 people. We spent an hour or so chatting with friends and enjoying the beautiful weather. The church of Santa Maria was pretty spectacular as was the Church of Saint Dominic that now is a museum of sacred art. There was also the ruins of a 9th century castle but it was a good climb to the top and we passed as this was our rest day. I did get some pictures looking up to the castle from the town. After dinner it was off to bed for an early start to Fromista 16 miles away.

Leaving Castrjierz is an enjoyable walk out of town of about a mile before a steep climb up to the Meseta. We started in the dark and made it up to the top in time for a gorgeous but windy and chilly sunrise. There were 10 or so other people there enjoying the moment but none remained long because the temperature was below 40 and the only way to stay warm was by walking. The climb up was steep but the descent was downright crazy. I can only compare it to the first climb and fall on a roller coaster.

Another mile or so and we pass another albergue San Nicolas 11th and 13th century buildings which have only basic facilities but does offer the ritual washing of the feet, communal dinner and only candlelight for illumination. With 10 miles to go we quickly passed through a couple of small villages and a long bridge with 11 arches over the rio Pisuerga. following the many canals and viaducts in the area.

Fromista itself is a town of 800 and provides many opportunities for dining and sleeping. First we had drinks and a long rest with our friends from Kentucky. Fromista is home to the church of San Martins, an interesting structure first consecrated in 1066 AD. Of Roman architecture it was restored and declared a National Monument.. A second church, San Pedro houses a religious art museum as well. Here we attended a one man concert for pilgrims listening to him play the flute, organ and demonstrating Gregorian chanting. It was a spectacular evening especially hearing the performance within the tall ceilings and stone walls.

Starting tomorrow the pace quickens…

The Meseta Invites one to look inward

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Not a desert, too much rainfall for that, yet hot in summer and cold in winter. Elevated but not a mountain. A plateau that allows the eyes to see great distances in all directions. A place where it is hard to hide from the sun. Quiet except for the wind. This is the Meseta. On the camino, we will only walk a portion of the Meseta. We will walk 136 miles on the way from Burgos to Leon. It’s not a hard walk if you stay hydrated and shielded from the never ending sun. We were spared the most difficult temperatures, even beginning the day once with a brief shower that gifted us a delightful rainbow. Temperatures remained cool in the morning and 70’s in the day. Even so the constant sun takes a toll. The pathway is wide and footing is stable. Not having to worry about trips and falls gives you time to contemplate or ponder personal issues, put to rest old disagreements, moving forward with a renewed spirit free from the old wounded self. When you prepare your mind and heart each day, gratitude and humility will walk with you sharing what this day offers. Everyone hikes not only this path but any path for reasons only they can decide. I have learned to not judge other’s Camino nor what they receive. For myself, if I don’t come away a better person, I will have missed a great opportunity.

Carolyn and I have been intentional in our spiritual approach for this Camino. First we began reading from several devotional books each morning to orient our thinking toward being aware and present to who and what this camino has in store for us each day. One of the books was “A Pilgrim’s Guide To The Camino de Santiago written by John Brierley. It is packed with the information needed to negotiate and get the most out of this amazing adventure. More than just practical information it contains historical information on every step along the way, The author also challenges you daily with spiritual questions to contemplate as you walk. First he describes the practical path. Divided into 33 segments of about 20 to 25 kilometers with a map for each day including comments, warnings, and other valuble advice. This is followed by a description of the mystical path. Here I quote the mystical thoughts from the book for this day.

” Will we walk today with a forgiving heart or hold on to old hurts that keep us feeling separated from our fellow pilgrims? Will you find the sacred symbol of healing used by knights and monks, ancient and modern? Will you place your hand in the niche that offered bread to passing strangers and leave a mark of love. Will you break bread with a stranger today? Will we compound the problem or become part of the solution?” At the end he inserts a quote from another book or author. Today’s entry was from ” A Course In Miracles” The holiest place on earth is where an ancient hatred has become a present love…

The path today covers about 12.5 miles with only a couple gradual climbs. On today’s walk and really through all of the Meseta we will pass through a series of small towns each day that have supported pilgrims for over a thousand years. At the time of the 12th and 13th century, there were 250,000 pilgrims a year making this journey. Today we will be passing through towns such as Rabe de las Calzadas, Hornillos, and Hontanas. Total population around 350.

Passing through Rabe de las Calzadas early in the morning there was nothing open to get breakfast so we took advantage of some of the cafe chairs and table outside, eating whatever food we had left in our packs. Leaving the small town we entered the peaceful country side filled with huge sunflower fields. Next was a short climb which might have been harder in the heat but this morning was barely in the 40’s. Both sides of the road opened up into long stretches of wheat fields which had been recently harvested leaving only the remaining short stalks. I say wheat but in fact depending on the quality of soil and rainfall it might be oats or barley.The Meseta’s top is fairly flat and almost completely used for this type of agriculture. It’s vastness is hard to describe or capture in a picture. After just a few hours you could spot Hornillos the next town still a distance away. Hornillos has a population of only 60. There are a couple of cafe’s and several places to stay. We did stop for a snack at a bar that had several nice guitars hanging on the wall. The next cafe here had a sign advertising live blues, jazz, and opera music tonight. I was curious and went in. they were setting up for the evenings performance. I would like to have experienced that but we were staying 5 miles further down the road. The next day I spoke with others who did spend the night and it was quite an amazing performance by two brothers one of which did sing some opera.

We had a couple more hours walking so quickly left climbing back up to the Meseta. We came upon a roadside memorial. These aren’t just on the Meseta in particular but all along the Way there are crosses and memorials to pilgrims who have died on their Camino. Some of them more elaborate than others but all give you pause to think about their life and prayers for the family. My own family members that had passed on were on my mind this day. I spent time thinking and praying for each of them placing a rock at various points of the Meseta in remembrance of their lives.

The towns are usually at lower elevation so at some point you can usually see the church steeple off in the distance as you approach. I truly enjoy spotting the town from a distance and seeing the road wind down off the meseta anticipating a refreshing drink at a cafe. We walked down to Hontanas, a couple of miles ahead with a new friend, David from England. Hontanas, another Medieval town of 70 people is quite a happening place for it’s size with many places to stay and eat. A medium sized church that also housed an art gallery with some pretty cool pieces that reflect camino themes.

Castrojeriz and Fromista lay ahead…

Atapuerca window into European history

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The night before we had a communal meal with 16 other pilgrims. Each told a little of their story and why they wanted to walk the Camino. The meal itself was terrific especially the creamed vegetable soup made with ingredients from the garden. Afterwards we all stayed and conversations continued as if we all knew each other for years. There were 2 women from Australia, a Frenchman who was traveling together with a young man from Texas who had walked 30 miles that day. Estrella, the proprietor gave them the yoga room floor to sleep on because all the other rooms were booked. Two men we shared a room with, one from Brazil and one from an Asian country that sadly I didn’t recognize. Communication can at times be so frustrating and this was one of those. Also a group of mothers (sisters) and their daughters were walking for 5 days,

The next morning everyone was busy packing up as checkout time is 8am. Usually hikers are out before that but on this day we weren’t because we had scheduled an 11 o’clock tour of the Atapuerca dig site. We were allowed to leave our packs at the hostel but had to walk a mile to the pickup center for transfer to the dig site. The tour would be in Spanish but we had been told we could still get a good view of what took place there. The plan was then to visit the museum of Human Evolution in Burgos that is directly tied to the dig site. There we would get an explanation in English. Our guide did speak some English and answered some of our questions. We learned how they categorized every bone/artifact and could reference exactly where it had been found. This system is used worldwide creating a unique number, so that any researcher can distinguish from all the other various dig sites around the world the exact location it was found.

We left there and taxied to Burgos to tour the museum and visit the cathedral.and finally taxied from downtown Burgos to Tadarjos. We had to skip a few miles hiking to make all this happen but the walk in and out of Burgos is mostly industrial and on concrete or blacktop. We felt is was worth it to experience Atapuerca and as it was we walked 8 miles on our off day.

The initial physical training segment of the trip is over. Our legs and feet have held up, though we expect more challenges ahead. We are feeling stronger for the days ahead in the Meseta. This is a wide open country with no shade. It is known for solitude and time to reflect and look inward at yourself. A time for growth and resolution for difficult emotions or challenges in your life. The Meseta is the place where the past is put to rest and a way forward is possible if you are ready to have that conversation with yourself…. It’s your Camino and yours alone!

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It’s just a few more miles but Atapuerca awaits!

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We had to get an early start because today would be our longest mileage day of the trip. However, there would be many things to see along the way and the following morning we would be visiting an archaeological dig site. Atapuerca is an active dig site which was originally discovered by workers in 1964, cutting a path for a railway through rock in the area. Since work started in 1978 they have discovered evidence of the earliest humans in Europe. 32 people male and female of varying age have been found here. In the area there are now several other sites which contain the greatest number of human fossils in the world.

But first we have to walk 18 miles to get there. Most of the day we will be walking following the main corridor N120. It was raining and dark when we left that morning. Crossing the bridge out of town I told Carolyn to shine her head lamp on the bridge and let me get a picture. We heard two voices from under the bridge yelling to us “Buen Camino” which means wish you well on your Camino. I could barely make out two people in sleeping bags and yelled back “Is it you Brian and Sean? It was them! Another chance meeting with fellow pilgrims whom we first met at a special service for the pilgrims starting from St. Jean on day 1 of our Camino. We hadn’t seen or heard from them in 10 days or back before Pamplona. They are really doing it the hard way camping outside. This time in the cold rain. I admire them for their tenacity and spirit. Buen Camino Brian and Sean!

Onward we walked letting the sunrise and breaking clouds brighten our day. Walking on mostly a wide gravel path in the middle of open farmland, sunflowers, and cut wheat fields we passed through no less than 7 villages.The most prominent being Villafranca (pop. 200) which welcomed pilgrims back to 900 AD and San Juan de Ortega (pop 200). San Juan was a disciple of Santo Domingo and also helped the many pilgrims passing through the area even building an Augustinian monastery here in 1150 AD.
Around 10o’clock I noticed a small structure with an archway next to the road. I took some pictures and read a sign board which dated the structure at 900 AD. It was all that was left of an old monastery and contained the remains of the founder of Burgos Count Diego Porcelos.

From here VillaFranca could be seen.
We were making good progress but stopped at a food market and bought bread and cheese for lunch later down the road. Leaving VillaFranca we passed through a beautiful forest with huge patches of heather. Spotting a food truck parked on the road in the middle of nowhere we stopped to see what he had for sale and met two pilgrims from North Carolina, Burt and Ashley. The great conversation we had with them as we walked quickly passed the time. We parted ways at San Juan Ortega exchanging numbers and have kept in touch since. Deciding against a lunch of bread and cheese (it would keep for another day) we gobbled down a pizza. You don’t see it often here so you better not pass it up! Here we met two more people at lunch, Seward and Ann. Walking alone to the next small town, Ages (pop 60), we were only 2.5 miles from Atapuerca. Here we struck up separate conversations, Carolyn with Hugh from Colorado and me with Dan and Ada from California. What a great day! From raining and wondering how difficult it might be to meeting and connecting with so many new friends. The 18 miles were a breeze because of the company and the energy that is part of this Camino.
Finally we arrived at Auburgue Impulso our stop for the night. A communal meal using ingredients grown on the property would be served by the hostess Estrella. She is a former pilgrim who was filled with a deep appreciation and love for what the Camino represents both physically and spiritually. Estrella’s energy along with the building and its furnishings made one truly feel transported to the distant past. The Camino miles you travel are physical but the changes that take place within can’t be measured in miles.
On to Atapuerca and Burgos…

The Camino has a way to make chance meetings more meaningful. On to Atapuerca, Burgos, and Tjardajos…

Grapes,OLIVE GROVES, AND FIGS

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The weather was improving despite the rain last night. We got an 8:30 start but only had 11 miles to Vianna. Leaving Los Arcos we pass by the cemetery. According to our guide book the inscription over the gateway reads “You are what I once was and will be what I am now.” The way is now flat and we move quickly through two villages San Sol and Torres del Rio which has a 12th century octagonal church associated with Knights of the Templar. This area is dominated by fields of wheat which had been harvested leaving thick stalks. I believe this is then cut down, baled, stored and fed to cattle in the winter. Huge stacks of these bales litter the fields for miles.

Walking on, the scenery changed into field after field of grapes interspersed with olive trees and fig trees. The grapes are ripening fast and I have to say fresh figs from a tree are delicious. These were my first!
Oh and don’t forget the occasional blackberry bush. Not as frequent as before but they taste just as good.

We arrived in Vianna at 2:30. Vianna is a small town of about 4000 people. It has retained most of its Medieval character. We strolled around town and had dinner with Christian and Mary Ann our friends from Denmark and a new friend, Shona from London. Pilar from Ecuador joined us later. The next day we were on to Legrono and some of the best wine making in Spain. This turned out to be a great walk. Carolyn, myself, Shona, and Pilar began walking together. Immediately Pilar and myself began talking and sharing. We must have slowed our pace because it wasn’t long before Carolyn and Shona put some distance between us. There are occasions when you are so present in a conversation that time doesn’t matter. I talked and she listened intently I did the same for her. We connected on a personal level that exceeded our real life experience. It’s hard to explain but when this happens it is wonderful. In my experience hiking together fosters these experiences. On the Camino especially! The six miles to Legrono took three hours yet it seemed much faster. I took very few pictures which is not normal for me. I will always treasure these hours with Pilar and have a new special friendship. Carolyn and Shona connected as well. All four of us were blessed this day! Even a little shower as we walked into Legrono couldn’t spoil what the Camino had in store for each of us!

GETTING TRAIL LEGS! Mile 82

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Estella to Los Arcos

After a good nights sleep we wanted to get a quick start so we planned to eat breakfast on the way to the trail. The best option was a gas station/convenience store. The choices were limited but in actuality pretty good. We quickly ate and got on trail by 8:30. Just outside the city we came upon a blacksmith shop.He had some interesting items out front so we went in. The amount of items in his inventory was impressive. I was able to ask him some questions about his trade despite my broken Spanish and his broken English. Each of his children are artists but none have followed him into the blacksmithing trade. He had one piece I would’ve purchased but it was too expensive to ship and I wasn’t going to carry it the 400 plus miles we had left. 
Next was a winery which had a free  tap for samples but I passed due to the early morning hour.

At the two mile mark we had a choice to go left or right. Distance wise they were about the same, the way left might include a bit more elevation gain. We chose left because it would take us into the wooded forest of Montejurra. It was a special hike through woodlands and we only saw a few others along the way. The highlight though was a herd of sheep and shepherd along with his dog crossing the road to new pasture. 

Stopping for lunch in the town of Luquin. It seemed to be a bar and restaurant. There was also a local pool and community center. We ordered drinks and ate some bread and cheese left in our packs from a previous day along with some grapes and paprika Pringles which are quite tasty but as far as I know aren’t sold in the USA. Rejoining the main Camino route we passed by fields of asparagus. The six mile walk after lunch was pleasant enough but we were happy to see the church steeple in the distance  just a mile or two away.

Once in the city, showered and feeling refreshed we did what hikers do and went for a walk visiting the cathedral. Then it was time for supper. In Spain people eat late so sometimes the main menu isn’t served until after 7 or later. Los Arcos is a small town (pop 1200) and dining options are limited. Pilgrims like to eat early so that’s  when you meet new friends or reconnect with others you haven’t seen for a few days.Then it was back to our lodging and off to sleep.Today was 13.5 miles but it seems our legs are getting stronger. It was the most enjoyable hiking of the trip so far.

THE JOURNEY CONTINUES TO… Vianna only 11 miles away