We have been walking now for 17 straight days. The first week the excitement carries you forward as your body gets acclimated to what it is being asked to do. The body gets stronger and I think the terrain gets easier at the same time, especially when you reach the Meseta. There is another aspect that takes place at about the same time. A certain rhythm to each day takes over. The walking itself becomes routine, at times effortless. More than that, all the decision making and resupply needs are known and taken care of before your head hits a pillow at night, leaving more focus for friendships and living in the moment. We are very fortunate that our finish timeline allows for mileage each day within our capabilities. At the end of the day our feet and legs might be sore and in need of rest, yet we sleep well and awaken refreshed able to do it again. Yes there is some stiffness starting in the mornings but that is usually gone in thirty minutes. Like I said, walking is pretty simple. Our favorite phrase is “traveling at 2 miles an hour is a great way to see the world”

Before starting to walk we have developed a routine reading our Brierley book on the segment we will walk that day and a spiritual devotion written by Richard Rohr. This gets our morning off and running both mentally and physically. Even our eating patterns have settled into a rhythm. The late meals were not working for us so now we try to get to a village and eat a late lunch which is the big meal for the day, settling for a light snack later and getting off to sleep earlier in the evening. Planning ahead we purchase something for the next day’s breakfast in the room and eat a second breakfast in the first open cafe after walking a few hours. This allows us to get an early start and usually arrive at our destination around mid afternoon to 3 o’clock with time to do laundry, eat, shop, and visit the sights in town.

I will be covering 2 days in this post.

Today is our rest day which means not walking more than 5 to 8 miles. Most of the path is a gradual walk downhill to Castrojeriz. With an early start of about 7:00 we should arrive at noon. There is plenty of solitude and off in the distance can be seen the ruins of the old town of San Miguel. Next is an old convent that has been turned into a hostel for traveling pilgrims. I wondered how rewarding an experience it would be to stay here. There is a communal meal for pilgrims staying here. That is always a memorable evening. Also there is no electricity here and something about night time in a 14th century stone building with I’m assuming only candlelight that kind of appeals to me. I wonder what the stars would look like out here in the wide open spaces at night. Eager to move on with only 3 miles to go we depart and arrive as expected around noon. Plenty of time to explore the town of 500 people. We spent an hour or so chatting with friends and enjoying the beautiful weather. The church of Santa Maria was pretty spectacular as was the Church of Saint Dominic that now is a museum of sacred art. There was also the ruins of a 9th century castle but it was a good climb to the top and we passed as this was our rest day. I did get some pictures looking up to the castle from the town. After dinner it was off to bed for an early start to Fromista 16 miles away.

Leaving Castrjierz is an enjoyable walk out of town of about a mile before a steep climb up to the Meseta. We started in the dark and made it up to the top in time for a gorgeous but windy and chilly sunrise. There were 10 or so other people there enjoying the moment but none remained long because the temperature was below 40 and the only way to stay warm was by walking. The climb up was steep but the descent was downright crazy. I can only compare it to the first climb and fall on a roller coaster.

Another mile or so and we pass another albergue San Nicolas 11th and 13th century buildings which have only basic facilities but does offer the ritual washing of the feet, communal dinner and only candlelight for illumination. With 10 miles to go we quickly passed through a couple of small villages and a long bridge with 11 arches over the rio Pisuerga. following the many canals and viaducts in the area.

Fromista itself is a town of 800 and provides many opportunities for dining and sleeping. First we had drinks and a long rest with our friends from Kentucky. Fromista is home to the church of San Martins, an interesting structure first consecrated in 1066 AD. Of Roman architecture it was restored and declared a National Monument.. A second church, San Pedro houses a religious art museum as well. Here we attended a one man concert for pilgrims listening to him play the flute, organ and demonstrating Gregorian chanting. It was a spectacular evening especially hearing the performance within the tall ceilings and stone walls.

Starting tomorrow the pace quickens…