The weather was much improved the next day as was the terrain. The destination was Zubiri about 13 miles away. I failed to mention that when we crossed the Pyrenees in the rainstorm on Day 2 we also crossed the border between France and entered Spain.

The way out of Roncesvalles is a wooded trail and at times a country lane. The path is wide and there is room for groups to walk together sharing information and getting to know fellow pilgrims on a deeper level.
Carolyn and I started a conversation with Raphael, his sister Carolina, his wife Juliette and their 6 month old baby Leopold. Raphael and Carolina’s father has 9 siblings and every year they have a family reunion and hike for 5 days on a section of the Camino. There are around 55 family members of Familia Garcia.  Some might hike every day, others might choose to take a day off or get picked up early. They are having a great time and we see them throughout the day and in towns. We’ve gotten to know their family and they know us too! 

Early in the morning we passed through the village of Burguete where Ernest Hemingway lived while writing the novel The Sun Also Rises.

We decided to not stop for coffee but did look around at the houses which were very well kept and decorated. Continuing on to the next village and again not feeling hungry we kept marching on. The next village would be our last chance. We were hungry now and also needed to fill water bottles. Entering the town we walked past a water fountain and filled my bottle. However we didn’t see any people and no merchants except one bar. I went up to the door where a sign was in the window that said “OPEN AT 12:30”. The door was locked and it appeared no was there. After a few minutes a man came to the door. When asked if they were serving food he said “No”. We looked around and realized the village looked like a ghost town. There weren’t any options.Suddenly we remembered that back a few days ago our host in Saint John had made a lunch to go, a baguette, cheese, and fruit that was still in our backpacks. We located a bench and we were grateful for it. The last downhill to Zubiri was long and rocky and very hard on the feet. They call the rocks Dragons Teeth. Despite tired legs and sore feet we slowly negotiated the path downward without incident.

Arriving at the hotel I saw our friends Brian and Sean from England outside in the street. I stopped to talk with them and Carolyn went in to register. The rest of this story is indicative of the kinds of things that seem to happen with regularity on every trail I have ever hiked. Carolyn called me inside the lobby. We did not have a room. Carolyn had made a reservation and received confirmation but the manager made a mistake and gave the reservation to someone else. After a seemingly long discussion she arranged for a room at another hotel. In the doorway was a woman from Austria who we met on day 2 pushing her daughter in a stroller over the Pyrenees. The little girl was joyful and spoke to everyone that passed. Earlier in the day we had seen her again at a highway crossing that had a food truck. Carolyn noticed she was not so cheery and social this time and still was not in good spirits. She had been complaining about her arm hurting. Her mother had heard Carolyn was a doctor and asked if she would look at her. The girl was very sensitive in her elbow and wrist. She did not want anyone to touch her. Carolyn advised she go to Pamplona and get an X-ray. And then she thought she might try something first. She told the girl it might hurt a little. Carolyn manipulated her arm and then told the mother if it worked she would be using it in a few minutes. Sure enough it worked and the little girl put her arms around her mother and all was well. Carolyn had prayed that she would be able help others on the trail. The ironic part is that the room we we had reserved was given to the girls mother. That is the only reason the four of us were in the same place at the same time.

At the end of the day, what started out as a walk in the park, in the end took a toll on both of us, yet we were placed right where we needed to be.

The journey continues…. to Pamplona