We had to get an early start because today would be our longest mileage day of the trip. However, there would be many things to see along the way and the following morning we would be visiting an archaeological dig site. Atapuerca is an active dig site which was originally discovered by workers in 1964, cutting a path for a railway through rock in the area. Since work started in 1978 they have discovered evidence of the earliest humans in Europe. 32 people male and female of varying age have been found here. In the area there are now several other sites which contain the greatest number of human fossils in the world.

But first we have to walk 18 miles to get there. Most of the day we will be walking following the main corridor N120. It was raining and dark when we left that morning. Crossing the bridge out of town I told Carolyn to shine her head lamp on the bridge and let me get a picture. We heard two voices from under the bridge yelling to us “Buen Camino” which means wish you well on your Camino. I could barely make out two people in sleeping bags and yelled back “Is it you Brian and Sean? It was them! Another chance meeting with fellow pilgrims whom we first met at a special service for the pilgrims starting from St. Jean on day 1 of our Camino. We hadn’t seen or heard from them in 10 days or back before Pamplona. They are really doing it the hard way camping outside. This time in the cold rain. I admire them for their tenacity and spirit. Buen Camino Brian and Sean!

Onward we walked letting the sunrise and breaking clouds brighten our day. Walking on mostly a wide gravel path in the middle of open farmland, sunflowers, and cut wheat fields we passed through no less than 7 villages.The most prominent being Villafranca (pop. 200) which welcomed pilgrims back to 900 AD and San Juan de Ortega (pop 200). San Juan was a disciple of Santo Domingo and also helped the many pilgrims passing through the area even building an Augustinian monastery here in 1150 AD.
Around 10o’clock I noticed a small structure with an archway next to the road. I took some pictures and read a sign board which dated the structure at 900 AD. It was all that was left of an old monastery and contained the remains of the founder of Burgos Count Diego Porcelos.

From here VillaFranca could be seen.
We were making good progress but stopped at a food market and bought bread and cheese for lunch later down the road. Leaving VillaFranca we passed through a beautiful forest with huge patches of heather. Spotting a food truck parked on the road in the middle of nowhere we stopped to see what he had for sale and met two pilgrims from North Carolina, Burt and Ashley. The great conversation we had with them as we walked quickly passed the time. We parted ways at San Juan Ortega exchanging numbers and have kept in touch since. Deciding against a lunch of bread and cheese (it would keep for another day) we gobbled down a pizza. You don’t see it often here so you better not pass it up! Here we met two more people at lunch, Seward and Ann. Walking alone to the next small town, Ages (pop 60), we were only 2.5 miles from Atapuerca. Here we struck up separate conversations, Carolyn with Hugh from Colorado and me with Dan and Ada from California. What a great day! From raining and wondering how difficult it might be to meeting and connecting with so many new friends. The 18 miles were a breeze because of the company and the energy that is part of this Camino.
Finally we arrived at Auburgue Impulso our stop for the night. A communal meal using ingredients grown on the property would be served by the hostess Estrella. She is a former pilgrim who was filled with a deep appreciation and love for what the Camino represents both physically and spiritually. Estrella’s energy along with the building and its furnishings made one truly feel transported to the distant past. The Camino miles you travel are physical but the changes that take place within can’t be measured in miles.
On to Atapuerca and Burgos…

The Camino has a way to make chance meetings more meaningful. On to Atapuerca, Burgos, and Tjardajos…